If you need to remove a manual gearbox, this is how I recently did it.
Step 1. Loosen wheel nuts.
Step 2. Engine bay work.
- disconnect battery and remove from car. Move radiator overflow tank to one side or remove.
- remove starter motor and move to one side (2 bolts)
- unclip gearbox shifter cables - two R clips and washers, then two spring clips that will need prising out with mole grips
- undo speedo cable.
- unplug reversing sensor
- unbolt clutch slave cylinder (2x bolts)
- remove screws holding clutch line to gearbox (two bolts)
- disconnect battery earth cables.
- loosen upper gearbox to engine bolts.
- devise method of supporting engine once 2 of its three mounts are no longer in use. An engine crane / a brace between front wings or similar.
- Jack car up and place on axle stand. Chock rear wheels and handbrake I used the rear of front wishbone brackets. Remove wheels
- remove split pin on end of driveshaft.
- remove front hub nut. If you haven't got an air gun or a long breaker bar and someone to hold the brakes, you may have to refit wheels without centre caps in place and lower to ground to get them loosened. Keep the nut loosely on the end.
- using 19mm tools remove the two nuts and bolts holding damper to upright. Split these components and this will give enough articulation to knock driveshaft out of hub. Use a soft headed hammer.
- remove driveshafts from gearbox - a hammer acting on a pry bar resting against the rib on the inner cv will knock driveshaft out of gearbox.
- either drain gearbox oil from suitable container, or stuff clean rags into output shaft holes to prevent gearbox oil from leaking.
- loosen lower gearbox to engine mounts. most are gearbox to engine, but there is one engine to gearbox on the back of the engine.
- loosen flywheel cover small bolts
- split exhaust at manifold, remove clamping bolt and support to one side.
- remove front anti-roll bar inner clamp bolts and move a/r down.
- undo rear engine mount - 14mm bolt.
- remove rear engine mount from car - a total of 7 fasteners
- remove all gearbox to engine bolts.
- undo LH gearbox mount.
- with a trolley jack support gearbox. It should now wriggle off its mounting dowel and clutch input shaft spline.
- lower to ground.
Thats pretty much it. Refitting is pretty much the reverse procedure, but best to have some help lining up the gearbox during refitting.
If your doing it with an automatic the procedure is mostly the same, except...
extra electrical connections on front of gearbox as well as on top.
gearbox fluid oil cooler in bottom of radiator. Remove and blank pipes to minimise oil spillage.
kick down cable from auto box to inlet manifold
gear shifter cables are on front of gearbox not back
torque converter is bolted to flywheel and you will have to rotate engine by hand and undo each screw in turn
auto box is much much heavier than manual one - no prizes for being macho and doing it on your own. Use help - either mechanical - jacks / cranes or biological (a friend)
A reasonably good socket set will be needed with some robust sockets
A breaker bar is useful
10, 12, 14, 17, 19 and 30mm sockets needed.
19mm spanner or two 19mm sockets
magnet on a stick...