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Need Help With My Turbo Conversion


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#31 tristancliffe

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 10:02 AM

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What an odd conrod design. All the stiffness in the wrong place, yet without any of the additional material on a normal rod to provide strength. It's like someone has designed them like that as a joke?
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#32 djsri

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 01:33 PM

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What an odd conrod design. All the stiffness in the wrong place, yet without any of the additional material on a normal rod to provide strength. It's like someone has designed them like that as a joke?


even my tuner said the same thing,maybe an odd design? btw I found this http://www.rpmrons.com/pauter.html related to the rod design
What happens when you cross the line between car and fashion accessory?
In Toyota's case the result was the Sera

#33 djsri

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 02:09 PM

No I haven't, I've not been able to diagnose what's going wrong. my intention was to just zip tie it up side down under the blower unit, or stash it behind the stereo some how.

got mine fixed y'day and running for the break-in period,I'm looking for a place to fix the ecu,otherwise I'l have to put it in the cubby :wizard:
What happens when you cross the line between car and fashion accessory?
In Toyota's case the result was the Sera

#34 tristancliffe

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 10:29 AM

Pauter Rods - Different by Design.

Different in so much that they are weaker in bending, and therefore aren't as good. A good H section rod doesn't have particularly thin walls, and the profile means the wrist pin (little end) is nicely supported too, so I think it's BS.

Undoubtedly they will sell a lot via the marketing (Different by Design is a good marketing phrase), but they won't sell them to decent engine builders.
www.dallara398.com - F3 Club Racing, Monoposto 2000, #1
Monoposto 2008 Classic2000 and 2010 Mono2000 Champion

#35 tristancliffe

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 10:34 AM

No I haven't, I've not been able to diagnose what's going wrong. my intention was to just zip tie it up side down under the blower unit, or stash it behind the stereo some how.

got mine fixed y'day and running for the break-in period,I'm looking for a place to fix the ecu,otherwise I'l have to put it in the cubby :wizard:

The break in period being what?

If you don't say "drive it normally, but avoid prolonged periods at one speed, one throttle opening or low RPM/high load" then you've been advised wrong.
If you say "keep the revs below xxx for 300 miles then yyy for another, and don't use full throttle" then you have been advised wrong.
www.dallara398.com - F3 Club Racing, Monoposto 2000, #1
Monoposto 2008 Classic2000 and 2010 Mono2000 Champion

#36 djsri

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 10:47 AM

No I haven't, I've not been able to diagnose what's going wrong. my intention was to just zip tie it up side down under the blower unit, or stash it behind the stereo some how.

got mine fixed y'day and running for the break-in period,I'm looking for a place to fix the ecu,otherwise I'l have to put it in the cubby :wizard:

The break in period being what?

If you don't say "drive it normally, but avoid prolonged periods at one speed, one throttle opening or low RPM/high load" then you've been advised wrong.
If you say "keep the revs below xxx for 300 miles then yyy for another, and don't use full throttle" then you have been advised wrong.


I've been advised to keep revs below 3000,without giving too much load and drive for 500km, after that I can go upto 3500~4000rpm range until 1000km.after 1000km I can drive normally using the full rpm range.

what's the correct method for break-in?
What happens when you cross the line between car and fashion accessory?
In Toyota's case the result was the Sera

#37 tristancliffe

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 03:02 PM

I've been advised to keep revs below 3000,without giving too much load and drive for 500km, after that I can go upto 3500~4000rpm range until 1000km.after 1000km I can drive normally using the full rpm range.

what's the correct method for break-in?


Yes, that's a very poor way to bed in an engine. The main point about running an engine in is to get the piston rings nicely bedded into the bores, and the majority of the ring pressure is provided by combustion gas pressure behind them (in the ring grooves). To get the pressure to bed the rings in (i.e. wear off the high spots on the ring and the high spots in the bore on a microscopic level) you need gas pressure, which means you need some revs and some throttle - occassionally full throttle.

The best way is to drive it normally without trashing it, and without letting the car labour at low RPM or labour at a constant throttle/speed for too long. So don't let it idle for 10 minutes to warm up. Don't let it idle for 10 minutes to cool down (to protect the turbo just drive gently for the last 5 minutes of your journey without using a boost). And don't sit on motorways for hours on end at 30% throttle...

Keep the revs above 2000rpm, and don't be afraid to use up to 5000 revs or full throttle some of the time (but not all the time, as that becomes thrashing).

The running-in method you've been given will stop the rings bedding in for a LONG time, if at all, which will allow oil and exhaust gas to meet past the rings, and causes this sort of 'look' to the piston - typical of a poor run-in. This image is actually from a two-stroke, but the principle is the same.

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www.dallara398.com - F3 Club Racing, Monoposto 2000, #1
Monoposto 2008 Classic2000 and 2010 Mono2000 Champion

#38 djsri

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 03:40 PM

I've been advised to keep revs below 3000,without giving too much load and drive for 500km, after that I can go upto 3500~4000rpm range until 1000km.after 1000km I can drive normally using the full rpm range.

what's the correct method for break-in?


Yes, that's a very poor way to bed in an engine. The main point about running an engine in is to get the piston rings nicely bedded into the bores, and the majority of the ring pressure is provided by combustion gas pressure behind them (in the ring grooves). To get the pressure to bed the rings in (i.e. wear off the high spots on the ring and the high spots in the bore on a microscopic level) you need gas pressure, which means you need some revs and some throttle - occassionally full throttle.

The best way is to drive it normally without trashing it, and without letting the car labour at low RPM or labour at a constant throttle/speed for too long. So don't let it idle for 10 minutes to warm up. Don't let it idle for 10 minutes to cool down (to protect the turbo just drive gently for the last 5 minutes of your journey without using a boost). And don't sit on motorways for hours on end at 30% throttle...

Keep the revs above 2000rpm, and don't be afraid to use up to 5000 revs or full throttle some of the time (but not all the time, as that becomes thrashing).

The running-in method you've been given will stop the rings bedding in for a LONG time, if at all, which will allow oil and exhaust gas to meet past the rings, and causes this sort of 'look' to the piston - typical of a poor run-in. This image is actually from a two-stroke, but the principle is the same.

Posted Image


finally done with the break-in period and took her for the final tune,did the tune up on dyno,BUT after 0.7 bar the fuel cuts off,so atm I'm in need of a 3bar map sensor to fix,I tried few shops online but none of them will ship during coming few days. check locally and found the 4efte sensor but that max out about 1.2bars. so at the moment I'm looking for an "e-manage ultimate map sensor" , :D :)
What happens when you cross the line between car and fashion accessory?
In Toyota's case the result was the Sera




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