Jump to content


Photo

Parts Needed For A 5e-fte Conversion


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 Dont_tell_him_pike

Dont_tell_him_pike

    loves his duck brolly...

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,582 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 08:50 PM

If you want to stick a turbo on your standard Sera 1.5 instead of swapping it for a 4E FTE, the following are the parts you'll need (compiled by andrew):

Starlet turbo MAP sensor (one on the Sera doesn't know the concept of positive boost)
Starlet turbo ECU (2 plug ECU from EP82)
Starlet turbo injectors (grey collar 295cc)
Starlet turbo inlet manifold (has air temp sensor in the front - Sera has one in airbox) - otherwise modify existing. Needs hole drilling and tapping, and sensor fitting. Its a different sensor to the Sera one although wired up in the same way.
Starlet turbo thermostat housing (has coolant feeds for turbo - only needed if turbo has water cooling)
Starlet turbo sump (oil return system fitted)
Starlet turbo remote oil filter housing
Starlet turbo PAS pump and mounting bracket
Starlet turbo pistons (or buy forged)
use 5E-FHE rods (or buy forged)

You'll also need an exhaust manifold and downpipe/decat pipe plus an exhaust (either get one custom made or get a used starlet turbo one). Starlet Turbo parts will work if you're going for the CT9 turbo, Although starlet owners report the standard manifold is very restrictive on the bigger lump, so aftermarket is reccommended. For bigger turbos there are various aftermarket manifolds available.

The following is a more detailed list from gorganl2000 at TGTT:

For an OEM 5efte CT9 buildÖÖhereís the spoon feeding list for allÖÖÖ

- 4efte rocket cover
- 4efte or 5efhe/fe headÖwith either 4efte or 5efhe cams (MARGINALLY better)Ö..make sure u keep the shims with whatever cams u useÖor reshimming may be necessary
- 4efte head gasketÖ5efhe or trd head gaskets are also used (but trd raise compression somewhat)
- 4efte intake manifoldÖ5efhe ACIS can be use, but usually requires something to operate it properly
- 5e block
- 4efte pistons or some people shave the 5e pistons (TRIED and PROVEN by MANY),,,in fact some people shave the 4efte pistonsÖÖbut then a lot of u guys are afraid to do this,,,,,,,,so stick to the oem 4efte ones then
- 4efte piston rings, if u use 4efte pistonsÖÖÖ..5e pistons rings if u use 5e psitonsÖÖÖthere is a difference in part numbers,,,,,,,,,but people have been know to use any set with any pistons and they work fine
- 5e rodsÖ5efhe preferred for bigger boost,,,,,,,,5efe rods can be used if u donít plan to over do it
- 4e/5e cam gear/wheel...set timing using 5e mark.........and set base timing at 10 degrees.........or as desired, as some may want to retard base timing depending on set up and gas quality
- 4efte injectors at MINIMUM
- 4e/5e oem fuel pressure regualtor or aftermarket unit...run anywhere from 2.3 to 3 bar on initial set up,,,BUT depends again on your set up......tune to suit
- 4e/5e fuel rail
- 5e idler and tensioner pulleys
- 4e/5e crank gear
- 5e tming belt
- 4efte ecu, harness and map sensor at minimum.....the greddy ultimate on the 5e ecu or 4efte ecu is also great for fine tuning...
- 5e crankÖ..some prefer 5efhe crank (stamped ì5eî) on itÖÖwhile others use the ì3eî marked crank which comes in some 5e blocks
- 5e thrust washers
- 5e flywheel (200mm)ÖÖor redrilled 4efte flywheel (212mm), again, has been done several times, just make sure you have a competent machinistÖÖÖOR try to get the 5e bolt pattern flywheel that holds the 212mm clutch set up (usually found on some 3E engines)
- 5e clutch and 5e pressure plate OR 4efte clutch and 4efte pressure plateÖ.NOT to be mixed and matched
- 5e/4e oil pumpÖÖÖ.make sure u get the one that matches what is thereÖÖÖas far as Iím aware they are two types
- 4e or 5e oil relief valve
- 4efte oil pick up and 4efte sumpÖOR 5e oil pick up and 5e sumpÖ.to be used together and not in combinationsÖÖÖi.e. choose one and use both units togetherÖ..note,,,u wouldhave to drill and tap the 5e sump for the oil return
- 5e connecting bearingsÖmake sure u get the correct sizes---check the back of the used one
- 5e main bearings ---- make sure u get the correct sizes---check the block and crank and do some adding of the numbers or check the back of the used one
- 4efte exhaust manifoldÖBEWARE a custom unit is preferred as the oem unit is VERY restrictive on the 5e
- 1 ct9 turbo and downpipe with all gaskets ---IF u are going to use the ct9 turbo for a short whileÖÖalso, your muffler may need a slight extension as the 5e block is about 10mm tallerÖ..else use whatever set up (turbo) u plan to run along with supporting exhaust manifold and downpipe
- 4e/5e water pump and hoses
- 4efte thermostat, housing and sensors
- 4e/5e gearbox/transmission
- 4efte distributor or 5efhe distributorÖ..same basic unit
- 4efte plug wires
- 5e timing covers
- 5e oil/dip stick and housing
- 4efte TMIC----NOT the best idea,,,but would work for ct9 set upÖ..if u already have a FMIC set up,,,use it back
- 1 gallon oil
- 1 pouch of sealant
- 1 oil filterÖ4e/5eÖsame thing
- 1 gallon coolant
- 4 spark plugs
- 1 cam shaft seal
- 1 crank shaft seal (front)
- 1 crank shaft seal (rear)
- 2 turbo water lines if required---depends on turbo unit use
- 1 oil line
- 1 oil return line
- all rubber gaskets
- all other asscessories from 4efteÖ.a/c, p/s, alternator, etc

install,,,,run inÖÖ..and maybe get tuned if you are smart

areas to be cautious of:
- power steering pump....u may need to custom make a bracket or just use the adjuster piece to hold it in place


Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#2 Dont_tell_him_pike

Dont_tell_him_pike

    loves his duck brolly...

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,582 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 11:02 PM

Few other handy links:

the TGTT thread in its entirety:
http://74.55.13.198/...read.php?t=9694

N13LZs turbo thread:
http://www.omicron.u...?showtopic=4138

My turbo thread:
http://www.omicron.u...?showtopic=4216

Scuzzy's turbo thread:
http://www.omicron.u...?showtopic=3302
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#3 Graham

Graham

    Sydney, Australia. Sera now with turbo :)

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,547 posts

Posted 25 June 2012 - 04:07 PM

I've had a collection of notes on 5EFTE conversion for a while, Thought I'd post it up here for others and to keep the info alive on-line, only to find this thread was the source of half of my notes. :)

So here's the rest of the details I've collected - it probably reiterates a lot of the above, hopefully doesn't conflict with anything.
I'm told it's all the writings of Ivan from EP91 (where ever that is).

Cheers!

How To Build A 5EFTE (4efte/5efe Hybrid)

Credit goes to ivan from ep91.

How to build a 5EFTE engine:
Well this question has become so popular that I have seen it come up on forums at least once a week these days. So how do you build a 5EFTE engine? Keep reading and it will tell you all that you need to know.

Firstly, whatís the difference between the E series engines? Have a look here which will show you a datasheet full of useful information. You really need to understand what is in here before you can continue.

Differences that need to be understood
Letís look at whatís physically different between all the E series engines. We will only concentrate on the differences that actually affect the conversion. The following differs between the engines:
ï The sump, and matching pickup is deeper on the 5E engines, however it does not have any baffles. It also does not have a turbo oil drain either.
ï The crankshafts are different. The 5E throws a greater stroke than the 4E, but the big end is the same size.
ï The tapped holes on the crank for the flywheel differ between the 4E and the 5E, even though they are both 6 holes each. This means the 212mm 4EFTE flywheel does not bolt onto the 5E crank.
ï The Stroke of the 5E (length of the Con-rod) is greater than the 4E engine. 4E = 77.40mm whereas 5E = 87.00mm. That makes the 5E Con-rods 9.6mm longer.
ï The ConRods on the 5EFE are thinner than on the 5EFHE engine. More information can be found here http://www.ep91.com/...hread.php?t=34.
ï The oil filter re-locator assembly on the 4EFTE has 3 holes for screws to secure it to the block. The 4EFE and 5E engines do not have this because the filter bolts straight to the block.
ï The pistons differ; the 5EFE and 5EFHE pistons have a raised top to increase the compression ratio and the 4EFTE piston top is flat to keep it at a low 8.2CR.
ï The valves-springs on the 4EFE/5E differ to the 4EFTE. I have tested both and the 4EFE ones are weaker. I can only assume that the 5EFE ones would be the same.
ï The camshafts differ from model to model, and year to year. The 5EFHE cams are the best to use, but the 4 most common specs are noted in the comparison sheet between all the E series engines.
ï The rocker cover on the 4EFTE has a breather hose in-between cylinder 3 and 4 to cope with extra crank case pressure.

So what parts will I need?
Ok, you have gotten this far so my guess is you are keen to build this engine. Well below I will add the parts necessary to build the engine. Of course you can always substitute an OEM part with an aftermarket part if you choose.
ï 4EFTE sump
ï 4EFTE oil feed pickup
ï 5EFHE connecting rods or aftermarket connecting rods
ï 4EFTE pistons or aftermarket forged pistons for a 4EFTE
ï Thicker head gasket if you want similar compression to a 4EFTE
ï 4EFTE oil filter re-locator adaptor.
ï E series head (they are all the same)
ï 4EFTE valve springs or up rated valve springs.
ï 4EFTE cam cover (rocker cover)
ï 5EFE flywheel

Things you will need to consider when putting your long motor together:
ï You will need the 4EFTE sump and oil pickup. They are a pair, so you will not be able to mix them up.
ï My recommendation is to use either 5EFHE con-rods as the 5EFE con-rods are very thin, and would not cope with the demand of a turbocharged engine. For more information, have a look here again. Another alternative is to use aftermarket Con-rods. Check out our ëPart Numbersí forum to find any associated part numbers for 5E con-rods.
ï Now because it is going to be a turbocharged engine, it is recommended to reduce the compression ratio of the engine. To do this, we change the pistons. The 4EFTE pistons work a treat and are easy to get. Obviously you can also go for aftermarket pistons if your budgets allow it. The 4EFTE pistons will reduce the compression ratio down to approx. 8.5:1.
ï To reduce the compression further, a thicker head gasket can be installed. This can be the thicker TRD head gasket, or a custom gasket. Without a thicker head gasket, your engine should run just over 8.5:1 compression ratio. With a TRD head gasket, it should run closer to 8.2:1. Again check out our ëPart Numbersí forum to find any associated part numbers.
ï All the heads are identical, so if you have a 4e or 5e head, you can use it without any problems.
ï The valve springs are stronger in the 4EFTE as opposed to all other E series engines, so at a minimum, install these. Personally I would get aftermarket ones that are stronger again.
ï Unless you will modify the cam cover (rocker cover) to vent crank case pressure to a catch can, I would install the 4EFTE one as it should be sufficient.
ï As the crankshafts are different, you are unable to bolt up the 4EFTE flywheel which takes the 212mm clutch. Instead you will have to use a 4EFE/5E flywheel which supports the 200mm clutch. Alternatively you may opt for an aftermarket flywheel. There is one other alternative, being a 3E-TE flywheel from a Corolla GP Turbo 1.5ltr engine. The bolt pattern is the same, and will allow you to bolt up any standard or aftermarket 4EFTE clutch kit.
Now a few footnotes.
It is proven that the 5efe rods can handle 12psi everyday. thats 3 psi more than the stock ct9. you may need to run the lower cr 4efte pistons. if you are going forged as I am then you want that higher cr.



#4 sikari2015

sikari2015

    Harmless

  • Super Special Members
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 05 February 2019 - 02:28 AM

Okay, so quick question, does the Sera 5E-FHE have the thicker conrods like other FHEs because I've read conflicting information. Like I've read FHE has all the cool stuff (like ACIS and higher compression) EXCEPT the Sera didn't.

 

Is that the case?

 

Also, what is the stock compression ratio for the Sera 5E-FHE?

 

Thanks.



#5 AndrewC

AndrewC

    Izzy wizzy lets get busy

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,933 posts

Posted 07 February 2019 - 10:46 AM

The Sera 5E-FHE is high compression and should have thicker rods, but doesn't have the ACIS manifold.

 

Should be 9.8:1


1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users