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Turbo Conversion


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#1 stumpys182

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Posted 15 September 2005 - 09:08 AM

Thinking of a possible starlet turbo conversion into my Phase 1 '91 sera and was wondering if its a staight forward "drop in and drive" job?

I've got access to a '91 Starlet turbo donor car, so I'll have all the wiring, ECU, plumbing, intercooler, shafts and gearbox etc from that car.

What is involved in this transplant and is there any mods need to be made to the sera body or wiring??

Any tips or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks Chaps!

Sean :thumbsup:

Edited by Dont_tell_him_pike, 23 February 2009 - 09:53 PM.
added subtitle

Remember, life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in, broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming "WOW....WHAT A FANTASTIC RIDE!!!"

#2 AndrewC

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Posted 15 September 2005 - 10:18 AM

Its a pretty straightforward drop in job - apart from intercooler. Either mod the bonnet (like me) or chargecooler (eventually) like Tim, or front mount intercooler.

Front mount intercooler - very limited access
Chargecooler - very very tight fit. relocate battery
Top mount intercooler - no access problems at all but you will need to modify the bonnet to allow air in, but also to get the height clearance needed.

1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram


#3 sera_beetle

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Posted 15 September 2005 - 10:28 AM

Its a pretty straightforward drop in job - apart from intercooler. Either mod the bonnet (like me) or chargecooler (eventually) like Tim, or front mount intercooler.

Front mount intercooler - very limited access
Chargecooler - very very tight fit. relocate battery
Top mount intercooler - no access problems at all but you will need to modify the bonnet to allow air in, but also to get the height clearance needed.

Front mount intercooler - WIth how you mount the FMIC you needs lots of pipe work... which mean more turbo lag!

Chargecooler - Could be the best way.. Keep the Normal bonnet good cooling.. but untested yet as i'm waiting for mine.

Top mount intercooler - a good middle groung cooler method... the only trouble is the it sits on top of the engine and it's not the best for cooling.. but it does seem to work well!

Good Luck Dude
178 bhp.... i think it's time for a new engine and a colour change!

View my sera here or here

#4 stumpys182

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Posted 16 September 2005 - 09:18 AM

Thanks for the info guys, looks as though i'm gonna be cutting a dirty great hole in the bonnet in the next few weeks!

Cheers Guys, much appreciated

Sean :)
Remember, life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in, broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming "WOW....WHAT A FANTASTIC RIDE!!!"

#5 stonecold

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Posted 21 September 2005 - 12:34 PM

Is a '96 Glanza Turbo ok for the swap. I was talking to a guy who has one for sale for only 1300. Any advice on what I should ask him + any tests I should do to see if everythings ok (don't know much about Turbo's).

#6 sera_beetle

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Posted 21 September 2005 - 12:39 PM

THanks good because you should have the CT9b turbo! ask him if it has a LSD on it?

If you bought this then you would also need a EP82 ECU

Tim :cry:
178 bhp.... i think it's time for a new engine and a colour change!

View my sera here or here

#7 AndrewC

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Posted 21 September 2005 - 12:40 PM

if the engine is still in the car you could ask to hear it running, even drive it, but at least a compression test / leakage test.

To convert a EP91 Glanza to Sera, you will need to source the ECU from an EP82 Starlet Turbo, but the basic engine is mostly the same. The Glanza has a superior turbocharger to the EP82 turbo, the CT9B as opposed to the CT9 - although this in itself isn't a reason to select one over another.

If the car has a limited slip diff, then you'll need the corresponding driveshafts as they are different in length to ordinary Sera driveshafts. The limited slip diff will aid traction and reduce wheelspin, especially when powering out of a corner. The LSD was an optional extra that a number of buyers deemed worthy of spending the extra cash on.

1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram


#8 stonecold

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Posted 21 September 2005 - 12:46 PM

Is such an ECU hard to come by? Is there much else to be done when changing to it. If the plugs arent the same it could get messy! Does anyone know if anythings been written about the conversion. At the moment I've just got bits of information. You could make a few quid from writing a step by step guide Andrew :cry:

#9 Impressive G

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Posted 21 September 2005 - 01:12 PM

yeah and loose alot when he doent get anyone asking him to do the conversion.

The conversion is really just taking the engine out and putting the new one in. wiing looms are another matter as i have no idea what is different to the GT. then there is the case of cooling the turbo, brakes (if needed)

Im definatly having mine done in the next 12 months. i wouldnt do it myself as i dont have the experience or the know how or the tools to do it and cos im having the front mounted cooler ive got another problem on my hands. and will the G5 bumper accomodate the cooler?, who knows. In japan ive seen the bumper with a cooler in it but its cut up. I saw a glanza on an importers site on the net yesterday with a front mount cooler...will that fit without mods? again i dont know

I dont think even andrew has a perfect solution to the engine conversion (but as near as damn it) cos the engine wasnt made for the car in the first place, but the 4E is soooo similar to the 5E and it does fit eactly the same and im gettin excited just thinking bout havin a turbo...... :cry:

G
Enjoy the ride...Invincible Sera 7706 TSS Class B runner up 2008 :)1991 Sera Turbo Audi Ibis White****My Motor****

#10 AndrewC

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Posted 21 September 2005 - 03:28 PM

I have told several people how to do it - one in Scotland and a few overseas.

Firstly you need a some bits. When I did my car I bought a Starlet with a scruffy body but with 56000kms on the clock. It allowed me to drive the car before taking it to bits. This way I discovered the slipping clutch and could do something about it easily. If you have a full car then pretty much everything you need will be on the car.

Two of the conversions I did used a half cut (the front half of a car) which had most of the parts - no centre exhaust. No opportunities to test drive.

You could buy components from various places, whilst may be cheapest, may not be the easiest way long term. I've done this once and it was a pain in the wotsit

Basically the procedure is as simple as the following 5 step procedure

1. take old engine out
2. put new engine in
3. sort out electrics
4. sort out exhaust
5. sort out intercooler

However its never as easy as that.

1. take old engine out - fairly straightforward - lower engine, gearbox and driveshafts out as a complete unit and slide out through a wheelarch. To do this you'll need the car on medium-height axle stands and will need an engine crane or lifting gear. Take radiator out for extra room, maybe take bonnet off for extra working space. Need to take most of exhaust off. Disconnect a/c pump from engine and tie out of the way. Leave A/C system charged.

2. Basically opposite of above. Engine mounts should be shared, but LSD cars have different engine mounts, and the rear gearbox mount is different between ordinary manual and automatic.

If you have LSD gearbox, use the driveshafts that match the LSD gearbox
If you have ABS, use driveshafts that match the ABS system
Problems may arise if you need both - you may be able to make one pair from both.

3. swap map sensors over. Fit new ECU, lengthen air temp sensor wires to reflect change in location. Lengthen cat temp probe wires to reflect change in location
you may have to swap over some other connectors, but the wiring should be the same. The starlets have a two stage boost system - low and high, or normal and girlymode. This can be wired in fairly easily, but its actually easier to leave it out and to bypass the boost solenoid by bypassing the solenoid from the pipework

4. you need a Starlet centre section of exhaust. This, with a bit of modification by turning the flange round at the back will mate to the standard back box. If you have a custom exhaust, you'll need to modify it, or get a custom centre section made up.

5. Intercooler - TMIC / FMIC or chargecooler. Each has their own merits, discussed earlier. TMIC is probably easiest, but has poor airflow and can suffer from heat soak, but much easier to pipe and install than a FMIC or chargecooler.

The standard TMIC will require a bonnet vent installing. I used the bulge and scoop from the Starlet Turbo EP82 bonnet, but mated to a modified Sera frame.

Front brakes are the same as Starlet turbo, so no problems there

IF you are converting from automatic to manual you'll need clutch hydraulics, gearshift cables and replacement brake/clutch pedals.


If you decide to do this conversion, do your own research as I don't want someone to phone up every 5 minutes saying "I've done that, what do I do next"

1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram


#11 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 09:47 PM

This is the most detailed thread I can find on the 4E-FTE conversion, so have stickied it.

By spooky coincidence, the car Stumpys refers to in this thread is the same Sera I've sent for a turbo conversion.

There is also a great deal of information (and some classic Tristan...erm...debate) on Aimz's project thread:

http://www.omicron.u...?showtopic=3684
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#12 sneezd87

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 09:51 AM

nice this all helps me out. im trying to source a 4e-fte because my motor is dying of blood loss (crank seal has shat) so im gonna need to do it soon but when i decide to do it, it will need to be done in one weekend.
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#13 shawnho

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 08:59 AM

Hai all.....
Just bought a Starlet GT Turbo EP822 half cut manual gear which just arrive fresh from Japan yesterday.
Milleage used 17000KM
It cost me RM3200.
Im doing a conversion from auto to manual.

I think the main problem is to fit the intercooler.
What is FMIC or chargercooler?
What is the different between the original intercooler compare to FMIC or chargercooler?

Thank you
From
KW Ho
Thank you
From
KW Ho

#14 Scuzzy

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 11:36 AM

FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler, core that is mounted behind the front bumper of a car, intake piping will need to be extended to accomodate its location

Charge Cooler = Water cooled intercooler with remotely mounted radiator to cool the water.

The standard EP82 is a top mount intercooler, in that it's fitted on top of the engine and cold air enteres from a hole in the bonnet, this can be done on a sera but requires some fabrication work done to the bonnet. Front mount intercoolers either require the loss of aircon or heavy modification to the front bumper to fit. Charger coolers can be overkill, but can be hidden much nicer I think (generaly requires battery relocation on a sera)

#15 Mork

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 12:23 PM

Think it depends on the intercooler as to whether or not the bumper needs modifying. I have the EP82 in mine and a FMIC, it will need mounting points on the body crossmember that the radiator and bumper mounts onto, but as far as I can tell the bumper itself is still standard (conversion done by a previous owner, so not 100% sure, but it looks standard (i.e. no chunks missing). You'll probably need to modify the turbo to intercooler pipe and it'll still be a tight fit. The bonnet on mine has been modified to clear this as well (the stiffening frame has been chopped locally, filled and resprayed, not the best finish in the world, but does the job for now). No AC though, as Scuzzy said, not unless you put a smaller radiator in. All depends what you want from the motor (FMIC gives slightly better performance, but it's all relative). Good fuelling, air intake, setup, turbo, etc. all make the difference. I'm embarking on a rebuild soon due to low compression on one of the cylinders, so I'm about to learn a whole lot more!! :)




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