Posted 21 September 2005 - 03:28 PM
I have told several people how to do it - one in Scotland and a few overseas.
Firstly you need a some bits. When I did my car I bought a Starlet with a scruffy body but with 56000kms on the clock. It allowed me to drive the car before taking it to bits. This way I discovered the slipping clutch and could do something about it easily. If you have a full car then pretty much everything you need will be on the car.
Two of the conversions I did used a half cut (the front half of a car) which had most of the parts - no centre exhaust. No opportunities to test drive.
You could buy components from various places, whilst may be cheapest, may not be the easiest way long term. I've done this once and it was a pain in the wotsit
Basically the procedure is as simple as the following 5 step procedure
1. take old engine out
2. put new engine in
3. sort out electrics
4. sort out exhaust
5. sort out intercooler
However its never as easy as that.
1. take old engine out - fairly straightforward - lower engine, gearbox and driveshafts out as a complete unit and slide out through a wheelarch. To do this you'll need the car on medium-height axle stands and will need an engine crane or lifting gear. Take radiator out for extra room, maybe take bonnet off for extra working space. Need to take most of exhaust off. Disconnect a/c pump from engine and tie out of the way. Leave A/C system charged.
2. Basically opposite of above. Engine mounts should be shared, but LSD cars have different engine mounts, and the rear gearbox mount is different between ordinary manual and automatic.
If you have LSD gearbox, use the driveshafts that match the LSD gearbox
If you have ABS, use driveshafts that match the ABS system
Problems may arise if you need both - you may be able to make one pair from both.
3. swap map sensors over. Fit new ECU, lengthen air temp sensor wires to reflect change in location. Lengthen cat temp probe wires to reflect change in location
you may have to swap over some other connectors, but the wiring should be the same. The starlets have a two stage boost system - low and high, or normal and girlymode. This can be wired in fairly easily, but its actually easier to leave it out and to bypass the boost solenoid by bypassing the solenoid from the pipework
4. you need a Starlet centre section of exhaust. This, with a bit of modification by turning the flange round at the back will mate to the standard back box. If you have a custom exhaust, you'll need to modify it, or get a custom centre section made up.
5. Intercooler - TMIC / FMIC or chargecooler. Each has their own merits, discussed earlier. TMIC is probably easiest, but has poor airflow and can suffer from heat soak, but much easier to pipe and install than a FMIC or chargecooler.
The standard TMIC will require a bonnet vent installing. I used the bulge and scoop from the Starlet Turbo EP82 bonnet, but mated to a modified Sera frame.
Front brakes are the same as Starlet turbo, so no problems there
IF you are converting from automatic to manual you'll need clutch hydraulics, gearshift cables and replacement brake/clutch pedals.
If you decide to do this conversion, do your own research as I don't want someone to phone up every 5 minutes saying "I've done that, what do I do next"