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Turbo Conversion


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#16 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 04:30 PM

When I did the turbo conversion, I went for a FMIC. I didn't want to modify the bumper or do any cutting that might compromise the crumple zone, so I got a smallish one custom made to replace the aircon condenser, and a custom narrower rad to allow for the intercooler piping. However, given the cost of this, if I were to start again from scratch I'd go for a chargecooler.
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#17 Scuzzy

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 09:12 PM

I've picked up two charger coolers that I'm going to play with and see which one is going to end up being better, I've got one that's been welded together, and a Subaru Liberty water to air cooler. Thinking I might go with the subaru one, but they both look pretty interesting.

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#18 bill

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 02:41 AM

Looks intriguing! ' had an unintercooled aftermarket turbo on a small german car some years back and really could have used one of those units! I too was set against the idea cutting the cars rad apron for piping. The Welded unit looks like it might allow for direct and easier piping with better airflow; the tight bends in the suburu unit may necessitate a tighter 'S' to the intake than the welded unit perhaps.

For a fluid to run in the system, pure water with a bit of "water wetter" type surfactant might give the best cooling efficiency. For an antifreeze, if needed, not sure how hot the air will get boosted through the turbo but a propylene glycol mix can take higher temps than regular type antifreeze plus is enviro safe; the mix determines thermal transfer rate, pure water always best.

Having had another vehicle that had a top mounted intercooler and swapping over to a front mounted intercooler FMIC , i can positively attest that there is an improvement with FMIC in direct comparison. It works :thumbsup:

The heat sink from the engine rising into the top mounted intercooler diminishes potential power and is worse the harder the engine works. The change to fmic gave me more torque for sure and smoothed out performance all other things being equal. The amount of lag from the FMIC might be a tad more on account of the much longer tubing, but the greater efficiency of more air flow through the intercooler fins and no more heat radiation upwards from the engine is great for more power at the same boost and rpm. Another benefit is having the top mount right out of the way and it might be easier access to other parts in the engine bay.

To have a stock top mount setup without the heat sink affect one fellow over here in NA recommends slipping a sheet of the R18 value 'silver mylar type airpocket insulation' under the top mounted intercooler to reflect away the engine heat. Works for him in a coastal climate. The product is found here for insulating pipes in home repair shops etc. RV shops etc.

The fellows at the shop installing the FMIC in my other vehicle pointed out when measuring the brackets that they made sure there was [~ 1 inch] gap between the back of the FMIC and the front of radiator/condensor so to make for better cooling. The rad fan can draw cooler air from the sides, bottom, and top with a gap present if the vehicles not moving and out of the airflow. I've seen no rise in my water temp with the FMIC in front of the rad as installed and so far no probs. ' hope that helps.

#19 shawnho

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 03:33 AM

Thanks for all the input...

Im in Malaysia which is hot through the year. The air cond is very important to us.
So does it mean i cant do the FMIC? or i still can do the FMIC with a lot of modification to the bumper to fit the aircond and the intercooler?

Can i have some picture which is FMIC installed for reference.
For Top mount intercooler, i also need some picture for the bonnet modification done.

After all the input, can i say FMIC is better than the top mount intercooler in term of performance and temperature raise?

Thank you
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KW Ho
Thank you
From
KW Ho

#20 Scuzzy

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 06:28 AM

You can use a FMIC, you're just have to going to think about installation. I'm in Australia and I suffer the same fate, there is no way I'm ditching my aircon so I'm going to go the charge cooler route to keep my aircon system obstruction free.

One option when fitting a FMIC is to find a fibreglass front bumper that will give you more room, http://carmate.com/d...h...&year=Hatch and http://www.xracing.c...?products_id=74 have ones that might work.

have a look around here, I'm sure you'll find some sera's with the modifications: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/garage/

#21 shawnho

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 09:32 AM

Thanks a lots....
I looked in to it.....i got some idea from it.
Will update you all ASAP.

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#22 sneezd87

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 09:19 AM

hey does the standard fuel pump need to be changed? im only goin to be running stock boost when i get the 4e-fte so it should be able to handle it but i would rather change it if i no that it will hit fuel cut when i give it a boot.
i was thinking about relocating the battery and mounting the tmic out to the side over the gear box. would this work to avoid heat soak?
a v8 only shows that u have a small willy

#23 Scuzzy

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 10:06 AM

Looking at the Toyota EPC the part number for Sera and Starlet fuel pumps are the same.

Might be hard to get good airflow there, and having a side mounted duct on the bonnet might look kinda daft. Unless you can just dangle it in the front bar, you might be better off finding an alternative (hey you can buy my other water to air charge cooler! hehe)

#24 AndrewC

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 11:36 AM

You need to have a reasonable amount of airflow through the intercooler for it to be of any real benefit. The top mounting location can suffer from heat soak, although for most purposes in standard tune I didn't notice any real problems.

I don't think mounting it over the gearbox would have any benefit at all, and because its not getting airflow it won't cool.

Solutions:

- TMIC and bonnet vent
- FMIC and lots of tubing, possibly sacrificing air con depending on intercooler
- chargecooler and relocate battery to boot. Mounting the extra radiator can pose pipework problems.

1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram


#25 shawnho

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 11:52 AM

Go for FMIC with air condition is available.
My Sera just complete few days ago.
It run well.

Get a Honda civic radiator.
Air cond fan change to smaller and thinner type.
Front bumper just need a very little bit of cutting only.
[attachment=1740:DSC00547.JPG]
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#26 Mork

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 12:54 PM

Which Honda Civic radiator is the right one? Are the mounting points the same?

#27 AndrewC

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 01:16 PM

Not sure, but they're readily available and cheap. Mouting points do need to be revised.

1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram


#28 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 06:52 PM

Another thing to note is you may have to cut the shell in places for intercooler piping, and it's difficult to predict how this may effect the crumple zone, but was something I was keen to avoid so got rid of aircon and used a slightly narrower custom rad to allow the piping past without going under the crossmember.

Like I say, if I did it all again from scratch I'd get a chargecooler...
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#29 shawnho

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 04:24 AM

Is a Honda Civic EG9. Only 1 mounting point need to be revised, the mounting point near the battery side.
Attached picture taken while in progress.
Just to lower down the radiator so that the bonnet can be close.
[attachment=1744:DSC00544.JPG]
Thank you
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