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Scuzzy's Ambitious Rear Logo Lighting Circuitry


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#31 bartone

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Posted 07 August 2006 - 11:09 PM

mm im thinking of buying my cold cathode soon! hahahaha
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#32 Scuzzy

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Posted 07 August 2006 - 11:19 PM

I just spoke to Seralicious who said there is a good amount of room behind the panels, its just that I may have to drill a hole to feed the wiring through and fit a rubber bung on it. If I drill though the body, is it best to seal the cut with some kind of paint or protectant?

#33 Scuzzy

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Posted 08 August 2006 - 09:43 AM

Oh no, I've scratched my rear panel :)

Stupid hacksaw :D

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#34 Scuzzy

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Posted 08 August 2006 - 09:44 AM

And this is the end result from the rest of todays work, I've cut out the entire logo save for a little lip the whole way around, a bit thinner in some areas (oops) but it will hold the logo in place nicely.

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#35 Kevin Wadsworth

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Posted 08 August 2006 - 10:08 AM

Looking good ! Just a word of caution on those cold cathode tubes from e-bay, that mountainman john mentioned. I bought 2 of those from the same seller. They are VERY delicate, and both arrived splintered and smashed. He replaced them without question - but I was using them in the passenger footwells, and they both stopped working within a year. I paid twice as much for replacement neons, but they are much more robust. :D

#36 Scuzzy

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Posted 09 August 2006 - 10:25 AM

72 hours to cure silicon... and now the waiting game... :D

Plastic wrap to prevent dust landing on it :thumbsup:

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#37 bartone

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Posted 09 August 2006 - 05:37 PM

hahaha 72 hours for the silicon to dry?? uhohh.. thats not good for me :D esp when i only have one piece of the logo :thumbsup:
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#38 markweatherill

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Posted 09 August 2006 - 08:13 PM

I just spoke to Seralicious who said there is a good amount of room behind the panels, its just that I may have to drill a hole to feed the wiring through and fit a rubber bung on it. If I drill though the body, is it best to seal the cut with some kind of paint or protectant?

You can run the wires through the same hole that the rear light wiring comes through, if you like.
It's going to be connected to the light wiring at some point anyway, I presume.

The way I did it, I poked the wires into the back of the connector block inside the boot and secured with tape. I'm sure there are better ways though. I can't recall if I managed to get the original grommet back in place.

#39 Scuzzy

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Posted 09 August 2006 - 10:35 PM

hahaha 72 hours for the silicon to dry?? uhohh.. thats not good for me :thumbsup: esp when i only have one piece of the logo :lol:

It's pretty dry after 12 hours, but for it to be compleatly set this particular product suggests 72, I'm sure diferent products will have diferent formulations and setting times.

I'm sure there are better ways though.

Problem will be with my plans above, I'm going to have a minimum of 5 wires to feed through :D

#40 Scuzzy

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Posted 13 August 2006 - 10:58 PM

So far so good, I've wired up a string of red LED's for initial testing, and today I'm going to be drilling the spaces for the LED's into the acrylic block, once thats done I'll be lightly sanding both the bulbs and the acrylic to diffuse the light :thumbsup:

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#41 Scuzzy

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Posted 13 August 2006 - 10:59 PM

These LED's are quite bright, and once sanded, hopefuly will spread the light a bit nicer :thumbsup:

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#42 blaster

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 07:08 AM

Hi scuzzy

Looking good keep up the good work :thumbsup:



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#43 Scuzzy

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 09:24 AM

I hope people don't mind these painfuly slow small steps, I'm just doing a little each day and don't have far to go now. Usualy its a case of me doing something and finding out I need something else to finish it off.

I've got my block of acrylic and drilled holes in it today, four sets of four, each angled to point roughly towards the center of where each letter is going to be (5cm apart or so). There are still lighter spots of colour, but after sanding the rear of the material (cut on an angle) things seam to be pretty reasonable, I Now need to get some kind of paint to prevent light leaking out the sides, so maybe something that can reflect it back might prove to be worthwhile, maybe some kind of silver or chrome paint, maybe even just white. but at the moment there is alot of light escaping.

The below photo was before sanding it.

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#44 MountainmanJohn

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 09:43 AM

when I did mine, I put foil behind and then covered with black duck tape....no escape. But I assume that may be more 'untidy' than you are looking for. :thumbsup:
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#45 Scuzzy

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 10:32 AM

I tried with a piece of paper behind the acrylic and it difuses things nicely, so I don't know if I want to keep with something as simple as that (trying to make it as durable as possible, paper might get wet) or try panting it, which if fails could be sanded back off.

I'd take a another photo, but maybe I'll wait till I get more of the lights in now :thumbsup:




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