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My 5e-fhte Project!


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#16 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 06:17 PM

Update! I now have all the parts except the exhaust mani and intercooler.
I've straightened out my condenser and put it back in place in perperation for a regas - if its knackered (likely) I'll go for a FMIC if it's good I'll go for a TMIC with a questpower FRP bonnet (although not cheap at 400!).

Yesterday I went to Bradford to collect a Fujitsubo exhaust from Sham (whose starlet is blisteringly quick! just to further whet my appetite...), although I've noticed the mid section is slightly ruptured from presumably speedbumps and such. I don't think it'd blow, and not sure it it's repairable, I was wondering if a small plate could be welded over it.
Also, the tip is a bit asbo, is it much faff to replace the single tip for twin tips on the same backbox?
Second pic shows damage:
Posted Image

Posted Image

Incidentally, I think I've figured out a way to get it all done by mid august, no promises though...
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#17 Lindsey

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 07:12 PM

if the silencer is mild steel welding a patch is childs play if stainless more complicated at home but easy for someone like a metal fabricator (as a tip have a look locally for an agricultural engineer ) they tend to be used to patching things to repair bits for farmers .
As for the asbo tail pipe your kind of stuck with that our FTO has a 5 inch tail pipe its b**ody load but great for mid range grunt, got the whole system in stainless from cat back for 120 local kid bought it then totalled the car in the flooding earlier in the year just bagged the rad off it as well from mr scrappy.
PM me with a list of what your missing and I'll ask around my mates down scrap yard.
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you

#18 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 12:26 AM

Ah that's good, cheers. By the looks of the rust where it's scraped, I'm thinking it's mild...
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#19 Dont_tell_him_pike

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    loves his duck brolly...

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Posted 23 July 2008 - 05:36 PM

Well, today the mechanic had the car to assess the job. His concerns are as follows:

There are two sensors (I forget what they're called) on the 4E downpipe, but only one on the 5E mani. He isn't sure about wiring the second one up.

Main concern is space. the downpipe is going to be very close to the Rad, he's concerned it's going to melt the plastic tanks. Would I be better off getting a less chunky aftermarket downpipe, and/or getting some heatwrap on it? With the tight space, not sure if there'll be much room to wrap the standard one.

There was something else...which I'm struggling to remember...

Again, any advice welcomed.
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#20 Lindsey

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Posted 23 July 2008 - 07:52 PM

Well, today the mechanic had the car to assess the job. His concerns are as follows:

There are two sensors (I forget what they're called) on the 4E downpipe, but only one on the 5E mani. He isn't sure about wiring the second one up.

Main concern is space. the downpipe is going to be very close to the Rad, he's concerned it's going to melt the plastic tanks. Would I be better off getting a less chunky aftermarket downpipe, and/or getting some heatwrap on it? With the tight space, not sure if there'll be much room to wrap the standard one.

There was something else...which I'm struggling to remember...

Again, any advice welcomed.

ask your mechanic if he can fabricate a heat shield to deflect some of the heat try some of the custom exhaust manufacturers to see if they can manufacture a custom manifold and down pipe it will save space and may free up some more ponies under the bonnet.
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you

#21 AndrewC

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Posted 24 July 2008 - 06:54 AM

The Sera has two sensors as well.

First is Lambda sensor, fitted in Sera exhaust manifold or the Starlet catalyst. The other is a catalyst overheat temp probe and its mounted in the Sera catalyst - which is underneath the car - just rewire it.

1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram


#22 Dont_tell_him_pike

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    loves his duck brolly...

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Posted 28 July 2008 - 02:03 PM

Well, yesterday I took the bumper off to access the space for the intercooler.

This first pic shows a mock up of the Wepr FMIC (could only find core measurements, the bits on either side are an estimate of the biggest part of the end tanks based on a pic from tgtt.com) mounted centrally. As you can see, even with the smallest intercooler I can find there's still not much space to put the piping over the crossmember.

Posted Image

So, in this second pic, I've put the measurements I took, but the bits highlighted in red seem quite flimsy, I can bend them by hand without much effort. does anyone know if these play much of a role in the crumple zone? I was thinking they could be bent backwards rather than cut to make way for pipes, which might even strengthen them in an impact.

Posted Image

Alternately, I'm wondering about getting a FMIC custom made, in which case would it be ok to have the piping coming out the back of the end tanks rather than the side? Or is there a good reason why this generally isn't done?

Thanks!
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#23 Impressive G

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Posted 28 July 2008 - 03:20 PM

gettin a custom one made will solve all the problems that's for sure, but may cost a little more. But im sure you can find a good UK radiator/cooler fabricator. The parts you have highlighted are very thin aren't they. Tony's Sera had them cut away by the company that did his. I personally think thats a bad idea and when Andrew was doing mine he suggested not to (due to crumple zones and all that, and possibly strengthening areas). But Tonys car does seem ok.
Enjoy the ride...Invincible Sera 7706 TSS Class B runner up 2008 :)1991 Sera Turbo Audi Ibis White****My Motor****

#24 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 01 August 2008 - 03:36 PM

I've found a company that can do a custom FMIC to fit perfectly in the space with the piping connectors facing backwards into the engine bay instead of outwards.
They've asked me where they should be and how wide they should be neither of which I'm sure about? It will be 250mm tall, so the inlet will be very close to the turbo if it's at the top, which I'd think to be a good thing, although the air outlet on the turbo is obviously a lot smaller then the standard 2.5" piping, so not sure if there'd be space to reduce the pipe enouph. the outlet to the engine would be a peice of piss though.

Can anyone reccomend a good position and width?

Thanks.

Ooh, I've just thought of something else - what's the hose that goes from the efi pipe to the rocker cover? I've got the efi pipe, but obviously there's nowhere to stick a hose on the rocker cover. Is it something I need? Would it be wise to get a 4e rocker cover?
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#25 Dont_tell_him_pike

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    loves his duck brolly...

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 02:18 PM

Small update, got a blitz downpipe :thumbsup: . Apparently it's the best downpipe you can get for the CT9, and for what I paid it had better be! Here it is with the standard one..bit of an improvement don't ya reckon!

Posted Image
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#26 sera_beetle

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    TEINy TIM

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 04:58 PM

yeah blitz cast decat is one of the best!

what manifold are you going for? ... because there are a lot of Crap stainless steal ones out there.
178 bhp.... i think it's time for a new engine and a colour change!

View my sera here or here

#27 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 05:30 PM

I'm getting a race coated mild steel mani from SPS...no cheap at 250 but an independant member had before/after dyno readings, showing a 13bhp gain, so worth it I reckon...
Only trouble is they won't be ready till the end of the month, so may have to temporarily use a standard one.
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP

#28 sera_beetle

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 07:36 PM

Ah yes i know them... great choice! that should do nicely :thumbsup: :P
178 bhp.... i think it's time for a new engine and a colour change!

View my sera here or here

#29 AndrewC

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Posted 14 August 2008 - 07:13 AM

If you use the standard one keep it easy until you upgrade. The Blitz decat is a good bit of kit. Are you using a standard CT9 or a hybrid?

1992 Toyota Sera ph3 ï1977 Lancia Montecarlo ï 1999 TVR Chimaera ï 2005 Fiat Ducato Motorhome ï Norwich Photo Motorsport Photography ï Racing Exposure ï Facebook ï Twitter ï Instagram


#30 Dont_tell_him_pike

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Posted 14 August 2008 - 10:25 PM

Cheers guys.

Keeping standard CT9 for the time being, maybe shove a hybrid in there in a couple of years...

I'm getting the conversion done by ToyTuning, they're not too far away and have done a few 5E turbo conversions on starlets.

They've reccommended I get a 4E FTE head, maybe with 5E cams. Is there much advantage to 5E cams? Thought seeing as I'd have a head out of a car and somewhere dry for a few weeks, might have a shot at rebuilding it myself. Unless the rebuilt one I've seen is still available, in which case might just put 5E cams in that.
Generally pretty good at object assembly, but not exactly experienced at building engines!
So, If I just changed the cams, would I need any supporting parts, or If I did the valves and everything, is there anything important to know that I wouldn't be able to figure out without damaging anything, and tell me to bugger off if this is asking a lot, but could anyone suggest a shopping list for the internals I'd need?

Thanks!
Confucius say, "He who uses a duck umberella as a bonnet prop shall, in time, inevitably feel the wrath of his bonnet"

The Red Sera 1.5 turbo
The Blue Sera 1.5 turbo - RIP



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