Warning Symbol: Catalytic Converter Light On !
Posted 22 October 2019 - 04:49 AM
What does this mean for me to check?
Thanks for any info.
Posted 22 October 2019 - 07:15 AM
Its the catalyst warning temperature. There is a probe underneath the car that monitors the temperature of the catalyst. It could be simply a wiring problem, or it could be a real warning which would signify that the engine is possibly running lean.
Any other warning lights or symptoms?
Posted 22 October 2019 - 06:26 PM
The battery light is on also.
I am going to test the battery for charging.
Why would both be on?
Also, I have lost about 1 litre of coolant. May be a separate issue.
Posted 22 October 2019 - 06:43 PM
Shredded alternator belt.
This is about the fourth one I have gone throug,
I changed the alternator pulley the last time as it was squealing.
I have a Bando 4PK 820. Is this the right one?
Forgot how to replace belt. Do I remove the wheel and get it from underneath?
Probably have to remove power steering belt first?
Posted 22 October 2019 - 09:46 PM
How long did engine run with this lamp illuminated?
Alternator belt also drives the water pump. Loosing the belt also stops the water circulating which can lead to localised overheating inside the engine - but the temperature gauge doesn't necessarily register quickly as that takes its temperature reading from the sensor near the distributor.
You will need to remove the power steering / air con belt which can be done without taking the wheel off, and then you can get at the alternator belt. If you've lost 4 then there is something going on - either a pulley isn't aligned properly, or the belt isn't tensioned correctly. You may have to slacken the main alternator belt as well as the tensioning bolt.
There is the danger that the engine has suffered damage, and that could explain the coolant loss - that could be head gasket. A compression test and a cylinder leakage / leak down test should provide reasonably conclusive evidence if thats the case. Compression tests are usually done with a hot engine, and can't do that until belt reinstated, so maybe go for the leak down test - but you will need some equipment including a source of compressed air and a leakage tester.
Also spin both the alternator and the water pump by hand - both should spin easily with no restrictions. If they don't, then it could be that has caused the belt to be thrown.
If there is a head gasket issue, then that is moderate expense but should be relatively straightforward - but I would recommend changing water pump whilst head is off as its much easier to get at, and to fit new timing belt and tensioners. Would be wise to change valve stem seals at same time. Check head for flatness and get it skimmed if necessary.
This could be a DIY job if you have time/tools/skills but easy for a garage.
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